How to Bathtub Recaulk

Caulk keeps water out of joints between objects. In bathrooms this is especially important because water is always ever-present. When caulk around a bathtub begins to crumble, water can get into joints, and mold and mildew can develop. This is when it is time to start over with fresh caulk to provide a stronger seal. This is how to recaulk a bathtub.

Steps:

1.Clean the tub or shower area with a bathroom surface cleaner that also removes soap scum. It is important that all surfaces you may be dealing with be clean and free of any substance that would come between the surface and the new caulk.

2.Strip the existing caulk from the tub or shower area.

• Using a sharp knife, decide what kind of caulk is already in your tub or shower area. When you cut into the caulk, if it is soft and rubbery it is most likely silicone based; however, if the caulk is hard and crumbly then it is most likely water based, latex or PVA.
• Determine the best manner of removal based on caulk type. Silicone based caulk may be removed using a razor blade scraper with a plastic handle, and the other types are removed best when warmed using an ever-moving hair dryer on a low heat temperature and then scraped using the tool.

3.Scrub the joints where the caulk had previously been with rubbing alcohol. This will help to get rid of any remaining bits and pieces of caulk left after the scraping.

4.Vacuum out any pieces of caulk that may have gotten stuck between the tile and the tub or shower pan

5.Spray on a 10% bleach to 90% water solution that will kill mold and mildew that may have grown when water got into the loose caulk joints. Let this sit and take effect against the mold and mildew for at least 5 minutes before scrubbing down with fresh, clean water.

6.Allow the tub or shower area to dry at least overnight. You do not want the dampness that crept into the joints when the previous caulk was loose, or the dampness that resulted from the cleaning you have just done, to impact the ability of your new caulk to adhere and stay in place.

7.Choose a type of caulk to use for recaulking. PVA and acrylic latex are best with ceramic fixtures that meet tile because the caulk is hard and easily removed in the long run. Silicone based caulk is best with fiberglass fixtures meeting tile or other fiberglass surrounds because the caulk is relatively soft when it dries.

8.Cut the tip off of the tube of caulk. Make sure not to make the hole in the tip too large because that will control how much caulk comes out at once, and a smaller tip will help your caulking to be a success.

9.Squeeze a bead of caulk no more than � inch (0.6 cm) evenly down the vertical joints first.

10.Smooth your finger over the fresh bead of caulk to press it evenly into the joint. Your finger should capture any excess caulk which you can wipe off on a damp sponge.

11.Squeeze a bead of caulk no more than � inch (0.6 cm) evenly into the horizontal joints around the tub or shower.

12.Smooth your finger over the fresh bead of caulk to press it evenly into the joint. Your finger should capture any excess caulk which you can wipe off on a damp sponge.

13.Apply an additional small amount of caulk to any places that seem a little thin and seem to need a little extra caulk.

14.Allow the caulk to set and dry for 24 hours before using the tub or shower area.

How to Anchor Your Pedestal Sink to the Tile Wall With Toggle Bolts?

A pedestal sink comes in two parts, with the sink bowl being separate from the pedestal piece. If the pedestal sink’s bowl were to shift while you use the sink, the plumbing connections may come loose or the water in the bowl may spill out onto the floor. Pedestal sink bowls have holes in the underside where they contact the wall. Toggle bolts offer a way to bolt the bowl to a hollow wall when you do not have a stud to anchor the bolts into

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Instructions

1.Position the sink’s base so it lines up with the plumbing in the wall. Peel the backing off the adhesive side of rubber pads and press the pads onto the edges of the sink’s pedestal so the bowl does not slide around during the installation.
2.Place the sink’s bowl on the pedestal and lay a level across the bowl. Position the bowl until it sits level. Mark the location of the bolt holes on the sink against the wall using a pencil, and then remove the sink bowl.
3.Make an X with two pieces of masking tape at each location where you marked with the pencil. The tape provides a surface your drill will not skip or slide on, ensuring your drill bites into where you marked.
4.Drill pilot holes with a carbide or diamond-tipped drill bit, drilling where you marked the sink’s bolt holes. Peel off the masking tape from the tile.
5.Place the sink’s bowl back on the pedestal, positioning it so the holes in the sink line up with the holes you drilled into the wall. Drive the toggle bolts through the holes, tightening them until the bolt heads sit firmly against the sink.

Reinstalling a Toilet After Bluestone Tile in Bath

Blue stone tile, which adds a bright, cheery color to a bathroom, is easy to match to other accents in the room. After you've finished laying the tile, you can reinstall the toilet once the tile grout has dried. Because you should have tiled right up to the flange around the hole on which the toilet sits, you can carefully reinstall your existing toilet so that it sits on your new tile. The process is not difficult, but it's ideal to have a helper as the toilet is heavy to lift. 

Instructions

1.Scrape off any residue from the old wax ring with a putty knife. Because the new wax ring will sit directly on to the flange, the flange must be void of old wax that could cause the toilet to sit unevenly. 

2.Turn the toilet upside down and set the new wax ring around the hole of the toilet as indicated in the toilet's installation manual. Press the ring firmly into position. 

3.Have a helper hold one side of the toilet with you and slowly lower it into position. The wax ring should sit directly around the flange in the floor and the flange's mounting bolts should extend through the mounting holes on the base of the toilet. When you have the toilet aligned correctly, push it downward and back and forth firmly to create a seal with the wax ring. 

4.Tighten the mounting nuts on to the mounting bolts with a wrench, and then screw the plastic caps over the bolts to cover them. 

5.Lower the tank onto the mounting bolts on the rear of the toilet. In some toilets, you'll have to screw the mounting bolts into position before mounting the tank. In others, the bolts will already be installed. Tighten the nuts on the mounting bolts with a wrench or screwdriver. 

6.Connect the water supply line that runs between the shutoff valve located in the bathroom wall or floor and the tank of the toilet. Water supply lines can be rigid or flexible. The flexible variety, which is made of braided metal, is easy to install because you can position it as needed. Tighten each end of the supply line with a wrench. 

7.Turn the water on by turning the handle of the shutoff valve and check to ensure the toilet is not leaking in any way. Flush the toilet a few times to ensure it drains and fills correctly. Read more: Reinstalling a Toilet After Bluestone Tile 

Installation Instructions for Aqua Glass Corner Shower?

You may install your Aqua Glass corner shower unit in a new bathroom or existing shower area. However, the preparation you need to do before installing the Aqua Glass corner shower depends on whether you are working in a new construction project or installing in an existing room

Preparation of Space:

1.Frame out a wall, extending from the back wall of where the shower unit will sit.
2.Cut out a 6 inch by 6-inch drain hole in the center of the floor where the shower will go.
3.Plumb the shower appropriately, according to the manufacturer's directions.
4.Place the shower unit into the area.
5.Place shims under the floor until the unit is positioned to drain.
6.Remove the shower unit from the space.7.Set the shower unit aside.
Installation of Shower Unit:

8.Cut holes for each of the shower's fixtures using a hole saw.

9.Mark the position of the showerhead and water supply lines on the back of the shower unit.

10.Drill holes for each of the fixtures or supply lines.

11.Place the unit into the shower area, aligning the drilled holes with the fixtures and supply lines.

12.Fasten and shim with screws. Shims will ensure there won't be shifting over time.

13.Place holes 8 inches apart around the nailing flanges using a 1/8-inch drill bit.

14.Screw the unit to the drywall using drywall screws in the holes on the nailing flanges.

15.Put silicone over each of the screw and around the holes for the fixtures and supply lines. Remove excess silicone.

1. 16.Connect all remaining plumbing.

17.Caulk all seams in the unit where the unit was cut for holes or exposed edges.

18.Cover the nailing flanges with drywall.

How to Install a Backsplash for a Bathroom Countertop.

Take time to make your tile selection. Tile lasts for years and is time consuming to replace, so make sure the tile you select is at least somewhat timeless and reflects your style and taste. As with many home improvement projects, the preparation is more than half the project. The effort spent preparing the wall for the tile will result in a long-lasting design.

Instructions:
1.Dry fit your tile on the floor to make sure it will fit in the space you've selected for the backsplash. Lay out the tile in an area the same size as the wall area, complete with spacers. This will give you an idea of how many tiles you'll need to cut.
2.Remove all light switch plates and outlet covers, and sand the wall with 80-grit sandpaper. Wipe off the dust.

3.Center the backsplash on the countertop if it isn't bordered by walls. If there are walls, then find the center of that area. Mark vertical and horizontal center lines with a level and sharp pencil.

4.Apply the mastic to the wall. Cover one small area at a time, about eight tiles' worth. According to This Old House, certain mastics require a trowel with specific-sized notches, and the thickness of the grooves will determine how well the tiles adhere, so check with the manufacturer to make sure you have the right size trowel. Apply the mastic with long, sweeping motions.

5.Set the first row of tile along the bottom of the vertical center line. The bottom of the tiles should line up with the center. Leave 1/16-inch between the bottom row of tile and the top of the counter, as Tim Carter of AsktheBuilder.com recommends.

6.Press tile into the mastic. Insert plastic spacers between the tiles if you're using them. Continue to set tile, working in both directions from the center line.

7.Use a motorized wet saw to cut notches in tiles that have to fit around cabinet corners or electrical outlets. Remove hard-to-reach material with tile nippers.

8.Install bullnosed tiles along edges that aren't bordered by walls.

9.Let the mastic set overnight and apply the mortar the following day. Use unsanded tile grout for grout lines 1/8 inch or less, and use sanded grout for lines 1/8 inch wide or more. Move the float across tiles diagonally. Do not grout the line between the countertop and the tile.

10.Wipe the tile clean with a large wet sponge. Rinse it frequently. Wipe in the same direction you applied the grout. After 30 to 45 minutes, buff the tiles with a clean dry cloth to remove the remainder of the milky haze.

11.Caulk the bottom line with a specialty caulk that matches the grout. According to Tim Carter, these tinted caulks are available at specialty tile supply stores. Run your finger along the caulk line to smooth it, and let it dry. Wipe away any excess.

How To Find The Leak In Your Shower Or Bathtub?

As the owner of Rocky Mountain Bathrooms I've diagnosed a lot of leaky showers and bathtubs over the years. Lots of relationships with customers have started with a phone call from an exasperated customer who has been suffering water damage from a shower or bathtub for years and is ready to fix it once and for all. I'm going to show you how we go about diagnosing a leak. Leaks let you know they exist by water appearing and pooling, soaking or staining something. It could be a ceiling below, the floor next to the bathtub or shower or even in a hallway floor outside the bathroom. While the proof does let you know that you have a leak, don't read to much into the location. I've seen ceilings get water damaged not from the bathroom directly above them, but from a bathroom above them and 50 feet on the other side of the house. Water has a funny way of running down hill and finding the path of least resistance, it can leak from one area and run all the way to another place before it shows itself. The first rule is not to jump to conclusions. Think logically of course. Bathroom directly above water damage, could be that bathroom is the culprit, but keep an open mind don't get to narrowly focused yet you could be on a wild goose chase and you don't ever want to start tearing open walls and ceilings until you are reasonably positive you are in the right place. Rule #2 is the mind will play tricks on you. It's very easy to associate circumstances and confirm circumstances in your mind. I can recall one particular problematic leak that the homeowner swore was related to running the shower. The ceiling was damaged directly under the shower upstairs and they connected in their minds that every time their son who took a shower after work in the afternoon it would leak, but it wouldn't leak any other time. If someone took a shower in the morning it wouldn't leak. Well it turned out it was a plumbing vent pipe unrelated to the shower that went right up next to the shower and through the roof of the house. The roof around the vent pipe was damaged but the roof was configured in a way that rain wouldn't cause much water to get into the hole, but that winter we had a big snow storm and every day after it got warm the sun in the afternoon would melt the snow that had accumulated around that vent pipe and it would leak down and run all the way down that pipe and pool in the ceiling below the bathroom. It would take it 3-4 hours and sure enough it would coincide with about an hour after their son took his afternoon shower. So be careful what you assume and what you associate, the mind will try to find ways to confirm your suspicions. The final rule is to confirm your suspicions. You must always test your suspicions. And think about how you are testing it, make sure the way you are doing it isolates any other possibility. This is the only way to truly find the leak. You must do isolated tests of each suspicious item one at a time. So lets take a typical shower or bathtub with a tiled surround and either a bathtub or a fiberglass shower pan. You've got a leak of some sort showing up either outside the tub/shower and you've observed and eliminated that it isn't the kids splashing water over the side at bath time or water leaking out the shower door. The culprits are:  1.The tile surround, which could be the grout, the corners or the connection where the tile meets the tub or the shower pan. 2.The drain, which would be the drain itself or the overflow in the bathtub 3.The valve in the wall. 4.The plumbing connections in the walls such as the hot and cold feeds to the valve and then the connection of the valve to either the shower head or the tub filler. So we have only 9 individual things that it could be. So that at least makes it easy. 9 Is a lot but if we are systematic we now have a list and a process to find out which one it is. Lets start with the drain. Start with examining the drain itself and the area around the drain, are their any cracks is the drain loose or nice and firmly seated? Get in there and step around it, put some weight on it see if a crack shows up that you didn't see until you put some weight on it. If you see anything like that you might have your culprit right there. But like I said don't jump to conclusions we must test, test, test! Let's isolate the plumbing that is attached to the drain. We need a rubber hose running to a water source not in the shower or bathtub (remember we need to always isolate our tests, you can't run the shower or tub valve to test the drain without running the risk of the problem is really the valve right?) Most home improvement centers will sell different types of rubber hosing by the foot. You can purchase a length of it that will be big enough to go over your vanity faucet aerator. So get your rubber hose and stick it into the drain and run the water for 15 minutes. Come back and see if you see your leak appear where ever it has always shown up. If it usually doesn't show up for an hour, wait an hour. If you see your leak, it's the plumbing attached to the drain and you are done testing. No leak, now it's time to test the drain itself, take your rubber hose out and run the water into the shower pan or tub and do your wait and check. If you get your leak it's something to do with the drain itself, or that crack you found. See how easy this is. Now lets say no leak yet. Well, now we know that it's not the drain or the drain plumbing let's now move onto the valve and the plumbing in the walls. If you have a leak before the valve you would have a leak all the time. So obviously we don't have leak in the hot and cold water lines attached to the valve in the wall or you would know it by the constant leak. If it's a tub, lets test the tub filler, since we know the drain is not leaking, just turn on the tub filler and fill the tub. Let it run for 15 minutes and check. If you see your leak you've got a leak between the valve and the tub filler, there is probably a copper elbow or a joint that is broken. If you didn't find your leak let's check the tub overflow while we are at it. Close the drain and fill the tub up to the overflow and let it overflow into it for 15 minutes. Find your leak? It's the overflow connection where it is attached to the tub. Okay let's check the shower head plumbing. The shower head is connected to the valve by a copper pipe all we need to do is plug the shower outlet and turn on the valve, this will pressurize that pipe in the wall with water. To do this you will need to take off the shower head and cap the shower pipe stem with a threaded cap you can buy. Or remove the entire shower head and stem and insert a threaded pipe with a cap into the elbow in the wall. However you do it, just plug it and turn it on for 15 minutes, the pipe will be filled with water under pressure and now if you find your leak it's the connection of the valve to the shower head.  Okay if you still haven't reproduced your leak it's pretty easy from here, you've eliminated everything else but the tile surround which by the way is usually the number 1 or number 2 most likely cause of leaks. So from here all you need to do is turn on the shower head and aim it at the walls, now this is not scientific and will not usually result in a very accurate locater of the exact spot. A better way is to take your rubber hose, hook it up to the shower head stem and hold that hose over each wall for 10-15 minutes apiece until you find your leak. This way you will know for certain exactly where it is. Examine the tile, look specifically at the grout, do you see any hairline cracking or missing grout in the area? That's usually all it takes. Press firmly is it spongy? The final thing to do is after you think you found your leak, is to wait a day and try it again. Double check it and make it leak again. Stop now and think about it, make sure you have it positively isolated. If you do all that and you are systematic you should now have found your leak!

Bath Tubs View .