Showing posts with label Bath tub instalment. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bath tub instalment. Show all posts

Monday, June 17, 2013

How to Clean Fiberglass Surfaces in Bathroom

Fiberglass is often used in new bathroom installations, like bathtubs and shower stalls. It is lighter than porcelain and easier to install because it does not require caulking or grout. Unfortunately, it is also more fragile and easy to scratch. If you find that your fiberglass shower stall or bathtub has accumulated soap scum and mildew, you need to remove it without the use of common abrasive cleaners or sponges. Read on to find out how to clean fiberglass bathroom surfaces.
Steps
1.Open all the windows in your bathroom to create a well-ventilated cleaning area.
2.Remove tough or dark stains with nail polish remover or paint thinner. This is useful for oil-based stains, adhesives, iodine and tar.
  • Wear rubber gloves while working with turpentine or nail polish remover.
  • Soak a soft, white cloth in the nail polish remover. Gently rub the stains until they are removed.
  • Remove the excess nail polish remover or turpentine with a wet cloth that you can dispose of in the garbage. It should not be rinsed down the drain.
3.Mix a solution of baking soda and warm water. Add enough water to make a paste.
  • You can also use mild detergents or bathroom cleaners, if you do not have baking soda. These include: hand dish washing soap, liquid laundry detergents and all purpose cleaners.
4.Wet the surfaces of the tub or stall, if they are not wet already.
5.Rub the paste all over the surfaces of the stall or tub with a soft sponge. Use a nylon brush to get into crevices or seams.
  • If you use a brush, make sure it is made with nylon, polyester or polyethylene. Also, make sure it is characterized as a non-abrasive brush on the packaging.
6.Scrub the surfaces thoroughly.
7.Rinse well, making sure that no residue from a cleaning agent remains.
8.Dry the area with soft cloths.

How to Bathtub Recaulk

Caulk keeps water out of joints between objects. In bathrooms this is especially important because water is always ever-present. When caulk around a bathtub begins to crumble, water can get into joints, and mold and mildew can develop. This is when it is time to start over with fresh caulk to provide a stronger seal. This is how to recaulk a bathtub.





Steps:

1.Clean the tub or shower area with a bathroom surface cleaner that also removes soap scum. It is important that all surfaces you may be dealing with be clean and free of any substance that would come between the surface and the new caulk.
2.Strip the existing caulk from the tub or shower area.
  • Using a sharp knife, decide what kind of caulk is already in your tub or shower area. When you cut into the caulk, if it is soft and rubbery it is most likely silicone based; however, if the caulk is hard and crumbly then it is most likely water based, latex or PVA.
  • Determine the best manner of removal based on caulk type. Silicone based caulk may be removed using a razor blade scraper with a plastic handle, and the other types are removed best when warmed using an ever-moving hair dryer on a low heat temperature and then scraped using the tool.
3.Scrub the joints where the caulk had previously been with rubbing alcohol. This will help to get rid of any remaining bits and pieces of caulk left after the scraping.
4.Vacuum out any pieces of caulk that may have gotten stuck between the tile and the tub or shower pan
5.Spray on a 10% bleach to 90% water solution that will kill mold and mildew that may have grown when water got into the loose caulk joints. Let this sit and take effect against the mold and mildew for at least 5 minutes before scrubbing down with fresh, clean water.
6.Allow the tub or shower area to dry at least overnight. You do not want the dampness that crept into the joints when the previous caulk was loose, or the dampness that resulted from the cleaning you have just done, to impact the ability of your new caulk to adhere and stay in place.
7.Choose a type of caulk to use for recaulking. PVA and acrylic latex are best with ceramic fixtures that meet tile because the caulk is hard and easily removed in the long run. Silicone based caulk is best with fiberglass fixtures meeting tile or other fiberglass surrounds because the caulk is relatively soft when it dries.
8.Cut the tip off of the tube of caulk. Make sure not to make the hole in the tip too large because that will control how much caulk comes out at once, and a smaller tip will help your caulking to be a success.
9.Squeeze a bead of caulk no more than � inch (0.6 cm) evenly down the vertical joints first.
10.Smooth your finger over the fresh bead of caulk to press it evenly into the joint. Your finger should capture any excess caulk which you can wipe off on a damp sponge.
11.Squeeze a bead of caulk no more than � inch (0.6 cm) evenly into the horizontal joints around the tub or shower.
12.Smooth your finger over the fresh bead of caulk to press it evenly into the joint. Your finger should capture any excess caulk which you can wipe off on a damp sponge.
13.Apply an additional small amount of caulk to any places that seem a little thin and seem to need a little extra caulk.
14.Allow the caulk to set and dry for 24 hours before using the tub or shower area.

Wednesday, May 29, 2013

Tips For Purchasing And Installing Bathtub Replacement Shower Pans

Bathtub replacement shower pans, the foundation for all tub-to-shower conversions, provide a base for stone, tile, or marble. They are the basis for converting any old bathtub into a functional, appealing bathroom feature.Property owners choose to replace bathtubs for various reasons. Where ADA compliance is an issue, upgrading to a shower allows owners to add important features like balanced-temperature mixing valves that have levers that can be easily grasped, vertical safety bars, adjustable-height shower heads, and barrier-free entrances. For many, bathtub is less safe and less practical than a shower and lacks features like benches, shelves, and foot rests.
Superior product lines offer several important features. The pans are UL-listed and offer drains made of PVC, cast iron, or ABS to assist with code compliance in any locality. They also offer either barrier-free or single-curb entrances. In addition, they resist mold, odor-causing bacteria, and mildew and provide leak-free protection. Finally, they are pitched one quarter-inch per square foot toward the drain, preventing standing puddle that could cause slippage and therefore liability.The first step to installing a replacement pan is to remove the old tub and surround using a reciprocating saw or a diamond saw, depending on whether the tub and surround was made of acrylic or tile. Then, saw through the drainpipe and remove the old pan. Mark the drain hole on the subfloor and note any tile overlap on the floor. Remove the pan and use a hammer and chisel to remove any tile that extended under the pan.
The builder should next attach the strainer to the drain hole. The subfloor should be vacuumed so that all debris is removed. The floor may have to be shimmed to insure a level surface. Once that is complete, the builder should install the new pan and evaluate the level. The pan should be attached to studs with galvanized screws.After installing the pan, the builder should connect the drainpipe and strainer via a compression gasket and then add the screen. The final step is to install cement backerboard, and then tile or other material can be added to complete the job.
Bathtub replacement pans are ideal for large jobs including hospitals, senior facilities, student dorms, hotels, and condos. The pan can be installed quickly and, if pans are uniform in all stalls, the tile can be precut. For owners, replacing outdated tubs can add both functionality and value to any property.