How To Installing Bathroom Crown Molding & Cutting.

Intro:

Crown molding is installed at the juncture of the wall and the ceiling. Although it looks like a hefty piece of wood, most crown molding is relatively thin material. The secret of its appearance is the way it is installed. Rather than being a solid block nailed into the corner, crown moldings are installed on the diagonal between the wall and ceiling -- there is nothing in the corner. Moldings installed this way are said to be sprung into place.

The tricky part about installing crown molding is cutting the joints. Because the molding is installed at an angle, it cannot be cut lying flat in an ordinary miter box; as you make the cuts, you must hold the molding at an angle. To cut crown molding flat, you need a compound miter saw.

Time:

About 4 hours for a regular room with four straight walls

Tools:

Tape measure, framing square, miter box or miter saw, hammer, nail set, coping saw, utility knife

Skills:

Measuring and laying out, driving nails, crosscutting moldings, mitering moldings, making coped joints

Prep:

Walls and ceiling should be finished and painted, molding can be prefinished

Materials:

Crown molding, 8d finishing nails, wood for blocking

Step 1

Determine how far out from the wall the edge of the molding will fall. Place a piece of the crown inside a framing square to find this measurement. Mark this distance on the ceiling near the corners and at several points along the length of the wall.

Step 2

Starting with the wall opposite the door, cut the molding to length with square cuts on both ends. Hold it in place and nail it first to the wall studs with 8d nails, then to the ceiling joists

Step 3

If the wall runs parallel to the ceiling joists, there may be no framingmembers in position to nail the molding to the ceiling. In this situation, cut some triangular nailing blocks to attach to the wall studs. Size the blocks to allow a 1/4-inch gap between the block and the back of the crown.

Step 4

The second piece of crown is cut square on one end and coped on the other. To cut the cope, start with an inside miter cut. Hold the crown in your miter box upside down (as if the base of the box were the ceiling and the fence were the wall) and backwards (if the cope is on the right end of the piece, the cut will be on the left as the piece rests in the miter box).

Step 5

Create the cope by sawing along the intersection of the miter cut and the face of the profile. Angle the saw slightly so the joint is undercut. Test the fit against a piece of scrap molding and fine-tune the piece with a utility knife. Nail the piece in place as before. Proceed around the room, making square cuts on one end and coped cuts on the other end of each piece. Make coped cuts on both ends of the last piece.

Step 6

For outside miters, the pieces also are held in the saw upside down and backwards, but the cut is angled in the opposite direction. To get a tighter fit in both outside and inside corners, flex and twist the pieces slightly before driving in the nails closest to the joint.

Installing Plaster-Faced Crown Molding

In the heyday of the plasterer's craft, elaborate crown moldings in fine homes often were cast in place from plaster rather than made of wood. Today, thanks to a new molding material, you can create the same effect with less skill than it takes to install wood molding. This new material has a lightweight core of expanded polystyrene -- the same material used to make a plastic foam cup. The polystyrene comes coated with gypsum plaster, so you really are getting a plaster surface.

The good news for do-it-yourselfers is that the molding is attached to the wall with any lightweight sandable joint compound. No nails are needed and joints with gaps up to 1/8 inch are easy to fill with the same joint compound used to install the molding. Also, inside miter joints are used instead of coped joints. Cut the molding with a miter box or miter saw and finish it with the same paint you use on the other trim in the room
Step 1

Cut the molding as you would wood molding, except make miter cuts instead of copes for inside corners. Use a putty knife to apply a 3/8-inch-wide swath of sandable joint compound to the top and bottom edges of the crown.

Step 2

Press the molding into place, causing the joint compound to ooze out along the length. Where the molding meets the ceiling and wall, smooth the excess with your finger.

Step 3

To join two pieces in a straight run, use a butt joint. Wherever one piece ofmolding joins another, coat the adjoining face of the second piece with joint compound before you press it into place. Use a damp sponge to wipe off any excess that squeezes out.

Step 4

After the adhesive dries, smooth joints with a fine-grit sanding sponge, which will conform to the shape of the molding. Dab in joint compound to fill any gaps. Sand again as needed.

What If ... You Need to End Crown Molding Without a Wall?

You may need to end a run of crown molding without turning a corner or stopping at a wall. If so, stop the molding with a triangular return piece. To cut this piece, place a scrap of crown upside down in the chop saw or miter box and make an inside miter cut. Then set the saw to 90 degrees, align the blade to the point where the miter ends at the back of the molding, and cut off the triangle. Attach the return piece with yellow carpenter's glue. Use masking tape to hold the piece in place until the glue sets.

Bathroom Equipments

Handicap bathroom equipment and various handicap bathroom accessories, devices and products help those with physical limitations use bathroom facilities with more ease and comfort. Many of these items are also used in bathrooms for the elderly.
There are various handicap bathroom equipment that facilitate personal hygiene for physically challenged individuals. These include toilet tissue aid, a self wipe toilet paper aid with a long handle for those who have difficulty reaching. No need to touch the paper after using. It cleanly disposes of the paper for you.

For people having trouble lowering and raising themselves to and from the toilet seat, there is a power lift that will give you a gentle lift to help you get up from the seat. It also has support arms to help you keep your balance in the process.

There are also dual purpose accessories such as a toilet paper roll holder that can store up to three rolls, a support bath ring that goes right around the shower or tub controls, a towel bar, and others. In addition to their specific function, these accessories also offer grab bar support. They're also used as handicap bathroom equipment.

Shower Wheelchairs
A Shower Wheelchair is ideal for wheelchair users who do not feel comfortable on a fixed shower chair or bench. This chair allows the user to move easily in and out of a wheelchair accessible shower stall. The chairs facilitate bathing and offer more independence to the user.

Toilet Seats
Handicap Toilet Seats sometimes referred to as handicap toilets come in different heights. They add a few inches to the height of a standard toilet seat and make it easier sit. Some models are fitted with support arms or rails to allow a disabled person or elderly person to use them effectively. There is also a toilet seat frame that can be attached to the toilet for support.
A toilet seat frame, or toilet grab bars can help an individual to raise and lower himself or herself to use the toileting facilities. These handicap handrails can provide some support and stability to the user.

Bathtub Lifts 
Bathtub lifts are another way to make bathing easier and more independent. They are usually operated with a hand control. Once the individual transfers to the bath tub lift, it lowers and raises the person to the bottom of the tub and back to the top area. Precision engineering makes it easy to operate with a hand control. 
Bath tub lifts can usually be used in most bathtubs. Some models may need a base extension for use in deeper tubs while others may not. Additional features may include reclining capability, portability where the back can be folded down for easy transport or storage when not in use. Bath tub lifts usually offer safety, comfort and stability.
Getting in and out of the bathtub can be a real problem for many people. The awkward entrance into a sunken area forces the body to move in a manner that can leave one feeling unsteady. Bathtub lifts can make the bathing experience easier, more comfortable and enjoyable. See video
Handicap bathroom equipment allows individuals with handicaps to use bathrooms more safely and with more ease and comfort.

Bathrom Trends.

It’s no wonder we are seeing a major rise in bathroom renovations that show off unique and distinctive trends – when you discover that the money invested in bathroom renovations today is becoming equal to or even exceeding the cost of kitchen renovations, it’s understandable that bathrooms have trends and benchmarks in their own right.

Why is there a rise in bathroom trends and an elevation of bathroom style?Firstly, just like a kitchen, a bathroom is a key room of consideration for a prospective buyer and it adds to the home sale price.  Secondly, and possibly most prominently, a bathroom isn’t just a bathroom.  It’s now a retreat for pampering.  Calming.  Relaxing.  The concept of day spas is creeping its way into our homes.  And for good reason.  It enhances our day to day lifestyle.

So what are the top 4 bathroom trends?  Let’s break it down.
Top Bathroom Trend No 1: Colour 

Based on the feedback from tradeshows, architects and interior designers, 2011 reveals a move towards oranges and yellows.  You may think them as too bright and buoyant, but used in combination with textures and fittings, these colours bring a fresh but incredibly warm and tranquil feel.  When selecting colours from this palette, just remember that sometimes a hint of contrast is better for smaller rooms, and take advantage of colours within the spectrum.  Less can be more.

Top Bathroom Trend No 2: Fresh Fittings

The industry is loving the freestanding bath right now.  It offers great flexibility in terms of design, not needing to be fixed against a wall.  It can leverage big spaces as well as create a boutique and prestigious feel. 

Another trend in fittings is the elimination of exposed plumbing.  Back-to-wall toilet suites where the cisterns are hidden and the pan and push buttons are flush to the wall offer a crisp and seamless feel.  They are stylish and give off a hygienic impression. Best of all they are, in fact, easier to clean!

But the biggest change is in the vanity.  Not only is there a rise in freestanding baths, but a rise in freestanding vanities that are custom designed.  Less and less prefabricated vanity units are being installed.  Rather, a custom designed vanity with access to unlimited colours, textures and materials seems to be the trend. With push-to-open draws and greater storage capacity, custom designed bathroom vanities with an inserted sink is now a top bathroom trend.
In keeping with crisp and clean lines, tap fittings are continually moving towards chrome mixers for a neat finish with ease of use over the 3-piece tap fitting units. 
There is a distinct shift from square shapes in baths and basins and a larger adoption of curved shapes.  Just remember, trends come and go – so be aware that when you carry out your bathroom renovation, unless you are looking to refresh the room every 5 to 10 years, make sure you consider how much of a trend you want reflected in your bathroom.� The introduction of curves seems to be a reflection of the desire for a more natural feel in support of a tranquil retreat rather than a single purpose wet room.  Without question the curve adds a warmth and calmative feel over the square shapes, without compromising clean, crisp lines.

Top Bathroom Trend No 3: Shape
And merging an old world heritage selection of amenities with modern accents in the overall bathroom design is also emerging.Check out our new Venecia bathroom package to see how classic taps can merge with modern fittings for a comforting effect.
Top Bathroom Trend No 4: Nature
Bathrooms have now embraced nature to create the feel of a sanctuary in the home.  Whether it’s the use of organic or natural products from stone and wood over the typical bright white tiles or the creative use of natural light and colours, bathrooms are less sterile looking and much more inviting. 
Windows from floor to ceiling with privacy shutters or garden oasis screens are a great way to bring nature in to your bathroom.  And an interesting new addition is led lighting incorporated in baths and showers so that the flow reflects the colours of your choice.  A fabulous way to create an atmosphere that you will feel is just for you.
But remember, you don’t need to use every trend on the market at once.  Pick what you like and make them yours.  It’s your bathroom, your retreat.  Enjoy!

Bathroom Vanities

DecorPlanet.com is the leading retailer of luxury bathroom furniture, bathroom vanities, toilets, tubs, shower panels, bathroom accessories, and other bathroom and kitchen products. We are most known for our unparalleled selection of modern bathroom vanities, contemporary bathroom vanities, and antique bathroom vanities. Because we are direct importers of bathroom vanity furniture, you will find the best styles and prices available on the web with DecorPlanet.com.

Our three showroom locations in New York (Brooklyn & Staten Island) and Philadelphia have helped 1,000s of customers update their bathrooms with our bathroom furniture. Now you can take advantage of our expertise and our impressive one-of-a-kind selection of vanities, vanity sets, vessel sinks, and other bathroom products by shopping with us online. We make buying furniture for your bathroom as painless as possible by offering free shipping on most items, as well as offering a 110% price match guarantee on all products! We are also known for top notch customer service.

We are really proud of our wide selection of modern vanities, contemporary vanities, and antique vanities, and are absolutely convinced that the vanity styles we carry will inspire and excite your plans to upgrade your bathroom. Customers and contractors seek us out because of our extremely unique and beautiful selection of vanities and bathroom fixtures. Now you can take advantage of our bathroom vanities for your own bathroom at home.

While the bathroom vanity is the design cornerstone of the bathroom, we offer everything else you need to compliment and improve your bathroom. Be sure to browse through all our product categories to find the bathroom furniture that will improve the look, feel, and function of your bathroom.

If you have any questions about any items on our website, or if you are looking for advice please give us a call at (800) 504-9974. Our friendly customer service representatives are standing by to answer all your questions. We look forward to helping you create a beautiful bathroom sanctuary in your home.

How to Your Tub and Shower Caulking?

Caulking the connection between your shower walls and tub prevents leaks and reduces mildew buildup. Removing old caulk and recaulking joints between tiles and your tub is an annual bathroom maintenance job.

If you have tile shower walls, there is a very good possibility that a leak could develop between the tile and the tub. As the house moves (a natural process that occurs in every home), a hairline crack can occur that allows water to get into the joint. Once water gets in, there is no telling how much damage can be done.

There's another good reason to recaulk. If you've tried to remove the black mildew stains from caulk, you know the blemishes are often unbudging. That's because the stains are often behind the caulk — between the caulk and the wall. The answer, of course, is to remove the caulk, kill the mildew, and then replace the caulk.Removing the caulk isn't as hard as it appears. One company makes a product called Caulk-Be-Gone and another makes an Adhesive & Caulk Remover, two commercial products that can assist you in the job. These products are specially formulated to soften caulk for easy removal.

Although this mixture is mild, don't forget to wear gloves and eye protection and make sure the area is well ventilated. Make sure the detergent you use is ammonia free. Mixing bleach with a solution containing ammonia can release a dangerous gas harmful to your lungs.

After the caulk has softened (it may take a few hours), remove it with a plastic putty knife. Clean the joint with paint thinner and wipe the area dry with a clean rag.

Then clean the joint with this famous mildew cleaner:

1. Add 1 quart of liquid chlorine bleach to 3 quarts of warm water.

2. Add 1/3 cup of powdered laundry detergent.

3. Mix thoroughly and place in a spray bottle.

4. Spray the mixture onto the mildewed area. Let it sit until the black mildew turns white. Rinse with fresh water.

Immediately after eradicating the mildew, use a hair dryer or a hot air gun to thoroughly dry out the area. The joint can now be re-caulked.

Use a roll of blue painter's masking tape for a professional-looking job. Apply the tape to the tub 1/8-inch from the joint. Next, apply another strip of tape along the wall, 1/8-inch from the joint. Now the caulking will go between the two pieces of tape, making straight, smooth lines.

Shower & Tubs Bathroom Remodeling.

If you’re planning on doing some home improvements or renovations, there’s no better place to start than in the bathroom. The tiny closet-sized bathrooms of the past are just that – things of the past. Today’s bathrooms are more spacious and often provide more amenities. If you want to open up some of the space in your bathroom, consider installing a corner shower. For some great ideas, visit Plumbing Point dot com.

Why a corner shower?
Traditional bathtub-shower units take a lot of floor space. With a corner shower, however, you’ll still have a place to bathe, but you won’t be wasting nearly as much space, especially since the corner shower will be utilizing a corner of the bathroom. Even if you already have an existing bathtub in the room, a corner shower will offer a place for a quick rinse, without using as much hot water as a tub bath.
Corner showers are often part of bathrooms that have tubs that lack a shower, like claw foot tubs and whirlpool tubs. Many senior citizens and others with mobility problems who might have difficulty getting in and out of a bathtub add a corner shower because of their entry and exit ease.

Types of corner showers

You can find corner showers in several shapes, including square, rectangular, and triangular. Some also have a gently curved outside edge. A relatively new design that quickly gaining in popularity is the neo angle shower. To see an example of a neo angle shower enclosure, view the photo below. You can even get a corner shower in a round shape for a truly unique look. If you have a unique shape in mind, you can have the corner shower custom made to fit your specifications.

Corner showers also come in several standard sizes, ranging from small to luxurious. Again, you can always have one custom made to suit your needs.

Parts of a corner shower

Basically, a corner shower has three main components: the shower base, the shower enclosure, and the shower door.

The shower base is the bottom part of the shower that rests on the floor and encloses the drain. Shower bases are available in acrylic, fiberglass, stone resin, and cultured stone. The acrylic and fiberglass corner shower bases come in a wide variety of colors, so you won’t have a problem finding one to match or complement your bathroom décor. The cultured stone shower bases are beautiful and last forever, but for some homeowners, their high cost is prohibitive. To get the same look of cultured stone without the hefty price tag, you might consider a shower base made of stone resin.

Corner shower enclosures are available in clear, frosted, or tinted in shades to complement the rest of the bathroom. The tinted and frosted models provide more privacy, but the clear shower doors will make your bathroom appear larger. If your bathroom walls are tiled and sealed, you’ll only need to install the other two walls of the corner shower because the corner of the bathroom will function as two sides of the enclosure. If you choose a neo angle shower enclosure, you would need to add two sides and a door.
Shower doors for your corner shower are typically made of glass or acrylic. They might open outward or slide, depending on your specific needs. The shower door may also be curved to fit a shower base that curves outward. This type of base and shower door make for a roomier shower.

Bathroom Shower and Tubs Overview.

Let’s face it. Showers are the bathing choice of just about everyone. So if your bathroom has become a family bottleneck because you don’t have enough shower stalls or the one you have is leaking, read on. We’ll show you how to replace a leaky base, replace a tub with a shower only or install an additional shower to handle demand. Preformed shower bases have vastly simplified the installation process. They’re virtually leakproof and are vastly easier to install than traditional solid mortar bases.

Still, setting a base can be challenging, especially when you’re remodeling older plumbing. In this article, we’ll show you how to rip out an old tub and replace it with a one-piece fiberglass shower base. We’ll walk you through the tricky parts, first how to relocate the drain just right, then the necessary venting. Next, we’ll show how to set a rock-solid base—one that won’t crack or leak down the road. Our step-by- step instructions will take you right up to the point where the walls are ready to finish. But we won’t go into those finish details here.

This is mostly a plumbing project. To take it on, you should be familiar with basic pipe joining techniques. Mostly this involves cutting and cementing plastic pipes and fittings. Don’t worry if you make mistakes. The materials are inexpensive and corrections are easily made by cutting out sections and installing new fittings and pipes.

Planning the job:

Completing this job—getting the old tub out, reworking the plumbing and installing the new base—will take a Saturday at least, a weekend at most. If you have to run a drain line through joists or studs, we recommend that you rent a 1/2-in. right-angle drill and a 2-in. hole saw (or bit; Photo 6). Otherwise basic plumbing tools and hand tools are all you’ll need. Be sure to apply for a plumbing permit and have an inspection done at the rough-in stage (when everything is still exposed) and after everything is complete (wall surfaces finished, final hardware installed).

Start by deciding on the size of the shower base and ordering it. Delivery can take weeks, so don’t rip anything apart until the new one is in hand. If you’re replacing an existing base, simply get one the same size. If you’re replacing a tub with a shower as we did, there are more details to consider. You’ll have the fewest problems if you match the new base to the old tub’s width (the front of the tub to the wall). Go wider if you like, but you may have to replace flooring. Or you may overstep required minimum distances from toilets and sinks. You might have to shift the supply valve as well. Keeping the same tub footprint (or smaller) minimizes the hassles.

We replaced a 5-ft. tub with a fairly spacious 4-ft. base the same width as the tub. (See “Selecting a Shower Base,” below.) We framed a 1-ft.-wide filler wall at the end, which is a nice place to build recessed niches and shelves for shower supplies.

Now’s a good time to buy a new shower valve too, especially if your old one doesn’t have scald protection, as all new ones do. It’s a big project to replace a valve that fails after tile or wall panels are installed.

You’ll need an assortment of pipes and fittings for installing the new drain and for reworking water lines. Pick them up after you open up the floor and walls. At that point you can see what you need, plan the new drain and water supply runs and make a list of supplies. Make a sketch like Figure A to help you keep track of parts.